" Crunchy Granola "
Handwoven & Handspun
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The Weaving Process


This hand loom, made by Norwood Looms, is made of cherry and one of the looms that I weave on (no electricity). Please see my comments on Harrisville Designs Looms in the My Favorite Links section. The yarn on the loom is called a "warp" and the entire process of loom preparation is called "warping the loom". As you can see, there is no warp (yarn) currently on the loom. Following are the steps for warping a loom, but the order may be different for other weavers.

The yarn I'm using for this project is 25% silk/75% Cotton. The yarn was originally white so I hand-dyed it, wound it into a skein (see "Spinning Process" for how to wind a skein) and then placed it on my yarn swift. From the swift, I wound it onto spools using my electric spool winder.

I use an electric spool winder to wind the yarn for my project onto a series of spools. The thickness of the yarn will determine the number of spools needed. The thinner the yarn, the more warp ends (strands) needed, the coarser (thicker) the yarn, the fewer warp ends needed. It can take me from a few minutes to many hours just to wind enough spools for a particular project. This yarn winder has a counter which measures in feet and I have wound as much as 2,000 feet per spool if I know I will be using the same yarn again for other projects.

This is the spool rack that I use. Once I have enough spools of yarn for a project, the spools are placed on the spool rack. This particular rack holds up to 120 spools and as you can see, I can vary the yarn colors as needed.

This is a tension box. The spool rack is placed 4-5 feet behind the tension box and each warp end from each spool is threaded through the tension box and then tied onto the warp beam. The sectional warp beam loom has dowels spaced 2" apart (sections, hence the name). Sectional warp beams also come in 1" sections which require less spools, but take longer to wind on because there are more sections. I have another loom that does have a 1" sectional warp beam so the number of spools needed also depends on which loom I'm using at the time.

This is the back of the loom which has a 40" weaving width. Each 2" section of warp is taped in place so the sections will not become tangled. Though the yarn is now finally on the loom, the warping process is still not finished.

I unwind one taped section at a time, then move to the front of the loom and each warp end of yarn is threaded through a metal "heddle". You can see the "eyes" of the heddles in the photo on the right side of the warp.

After threading each heddle, I then "sley" (pronounced slay) the reed which is a comb that is the weaving width of the loom. It has has slots (called "dents) which also have to be threaded using a sley hook (shown on warp). I use my fingers to thread the heddles.

Here, I tied the warp ends together to keep them from slipping out of the reed and heddles. The reed assembly is called the "beater". Below the beater is the the "cloth" beam.

In this photo, you can see how the warp extends from the sectional warp beam on the back of the loom, through the heddles and reed, over the "breast" beam and is tied onto the cloth beam.

My last before weaving step is to "tie up the treadles". The treadles (peddles) are tied to the harnesses in a particular order depending on the draft (pattern) I'm weaving. I have not discussed harnesses (this loom has 4, my other loom has 8), but I can weave on as few as two depending on the draft. The draft tells me which heddles to thread, which harnesses are needed and which harnesses are raised by treadling.

Finally, I can start weaving. In this case, I am weaving scarves with a cotton/silk warp that I hand-dyed. The weft is a linen yarn, called flake because of its thick/thin appearance. This is also referred to as a "textured" yarn.

As the fabric is woven, it is wound onto the cloth beam which is under the front of the loom and can be seen by looking under the woven fabric. I continue weaving until I have enough of the particular item that I am weaving, in this case, my multi-use towels.

After I have finished weaving, in this case, scarves, they are removed from the cloth beam, cut, the fringe is tied and then they are ready for wet finishing which means they will be washed and line dried.

This is another scarf using a different color warp and weft.

TIME INVOLVED

The above is actually a brief overview of the steps involved in weaving. Because of space and my time, there are some steps that were left out, however, this will give you some insight as to how much work is involved in weaving. Though I love my work (all aspects of weaving and spinning), it is work and my schedule averages 8-10 hours daily.

(1) It takes approximately 6-8 hours to wind the number of spools needed for my various handwoven items. Because I will be weaving more of a particular item as they sell, I fill the spools to the maximum so that I will have enough yarn for the next time I'm weaving.

(2) Winding onto the sectional warp beam takes approximately 2-4 hours depending on how long a warp I need and how many sections I need to fill.

(3) Threading the heddles is aprroximately 2-4 hours depending on how wide my project is and the number of heddles needed. If the project is a 10" scarf using a 12 dent reed, than I need to thread 120 heddles. If I'm weaving a shawl with a finer yarn using an 18 dent reed and the shawl is 30" wide, then I need to thread 540 heddles. Of course, as the project becomes wider (a 90" wide throw) and the yarns are finer or coarser, I will need to thread the appropriate number of heddles.

(4) Sleying the reed can take almost as much time as threading the heddles, also depending on the number of warp ends and the number of dents (slots) per inch of the reed.

(5) The treadle tie-up can take approximately 15-60 minutes depending on the number of treadles used and the number of tie-ups that I have to make (my looms have 10 treadles and 8 holes per treadle, one hole for each harness for a total of 80). Once the treadles have been tied-up, I will depress each treadle to make sure that the proper harnesses rise and the shed is correct as well as the warp ends are even. Any adjustments can be seen and made at that time.

(6) Winding the number of bobbins can take 30-60 minutes depending on the number of colors and bobbins needed.

The actual warping of the loom takes a considerable amount of time and keep in mind that as I change to a different draft (pattern), as well as yarn color and project, all of the steps have to be done again as well as the time it takes to actually weave my items. There is also finish work such as cutting, sewing and serging, tieing (fringe on scarves), washing, drying, label printing and attaching, packing.

As I stated in the section on the spinning process, I am well aware that the prices for my work are considerably below what I should be charging, especially for the time and work that I put into all of my items. But again, it's work that I love and though my prices will increase over time, my goal is to continue to make it available and affordable for the general public.

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